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And again... I returned to Romagna

12/31/2020

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THE STORY SO FAR:

I'd gone back to Romagna with my old friend Angelo and after 40 years we had not only discovered Ravenna but been enchanted by it!

The mosaics, the history, the atmosphere, the food, the fun and the gelatos had us captivated!

And I went on to continue my adventure in Romagna, still entranced by the 5th century Roman Empress Galla Placidia. But now to learn much more about the strange and wonderful place that was her seat of power - Romagna


Galla Placidia was followed by more colourful rulers, in particular the Gothic hero Theodoric who shepherded half a million of his people over the Alps to populate the area. This powerful man built more palaces and basilicas, this time in the Northern Arian style. And then, gradually Ravenna slid back into obscurity.
 
Cinzia guided me around the city. Every time I returned there was something to see. She took me to the fabulous basilicas, some dark and haunted like the church of San Vitale decorated with astonishing mosaics depicting the dynamic emperor Justinian, writer of western law, and his seductive dancing-girl wife Teodora. She took me to the museums and art galleries, ex-monastries and churches, and she took me to the extraordinary basilica of Sant’Appolinare in Classe. This massive edifice with its glittering mosaics seemed like it lived in a land of light, delicately reflecting all the glory of its 1600 years.
 
Then, when the visits and the delightful tours seemed to be over, I came back to Ravenna so Cinzia could show me what happened after Ravenna’s power lapsed. She took me to see the tomb of Dante Alighieri and showed me her favourite basilica just by it – the 7th-century basilica of San Francesco. This classic basilica had something very special – goldfish swimming in the crypt.
 
The sea had receded from Ravenna – denuding the city of its canals and natural moat. Then it was no longer an island and robbed of the massive natural protection of the sea, it was invincible no longer and slowly it has begun to sink.
 
This is nowhere more evident than in the mosaic-floored crypt of San Francesco. Now it is full of water and is the home to a family of goldfish.
 
Back to the tomb of Dante, Cinzia proudly told me the story of the greatest Italian writer ever – she was besotted with one of his tales, the ill-fated romance of Francesca and Paolo which took place close to Ravenna. Poor dears, they both ended up in Hell!
 
Dante had been exiled by Florence in 1302 and had wandered the country making trouble before being taken in by the Polenta family near Ravenna where he died of malaria in 1321. He was buried by the Francescan monks.
 
Naturally as Dante was a Florentine, and one of the world’s great poets, the Florentines wanted Dante’s remains in their city. Knowing that they would stop at nothing, the Franciscan monks hid Dante’s coffin. For the last nearly 800 years, the Florentines have tried to get back what’s left of their star poet but with no success. Dante Alighieri was pardoned by Florence in 2008!
 
Carrying on the literary theme, Cinzia led me to Ravenna’s ‘Street of Poets’. The via Mazzini is a lovely long cobbled pedestrian street which winds through the pretty 18th century part of Ravenna. At the time most of the street’s palaces, houses and shops were created, Ravenna was a magnet for rich and educated Grand Tour visitors from all over the world. They came to imbue themselves with the magic, history and art of this then-iconic, city.

Following in Dante’s footsteps came Oscar Wilde and Sigmund Freud, Alfred Lord Byron and TS Eliot, Henry James and Herman Hesse and all up this lovely street there were small placards with their comments about Ravenna.
 
As it happened, Cinzia was very fond of Lord Byron who came to Ravenna and seduced Teresa Countess Guiccioli, the wife of a rich Ravenna merchant. Appropriately Byron was writing the first five cantos of Don Juan at the time.
 
Following on the Byron theme, Cinzia decided to take me to Bagnacavallo the little country town where Byron had his love-nest. Rather more than pretty, Bagnacavallo has a spectacular miniature 17th-century perfect oval piazza, a street of love, and the ancient convent where Byron unceremoniously dumped his two-year-old daughter Allegra. She died there at the age of five. Sad I thought; romantic thought Cinzia.
 
Now we’d moved our centre of interest outside of Ravenna, Cinzia decided to take me for two meals in two very different and very special places.
 
The Adriatic coast municipality of Cervia had been an ancient salt city with enormous salt-pan lakes, owned by the Popes. In the 18th century they built an elegant new model town and port to house their vastly wealthy salt businesses and the people running it.

We walked around the colourful port and into the ‘New’ model town with its piazzas and porticos, its salt market and salt museum, its delightful 18th century theatre and its art-stuffed cathedral. By now, naturally we were hungry and it was just a short walk to a sublime beach-side restaurant.
 
And I was introduced to Strozzapreti. Made of just flour and water (no eggs) these short lengths of pasta twisted as though a priests thin neck were between your fingers – “Strangled Priest” pasta is something very special and totally fabulous with a sauce of fresh fish created by someone who truly knows. Even more fabulous if you’re eating it in a classic restaurant on the beach and your bare feet are twisting with enjoyment in the warm sand – as Cinzia’s were. A long lunch, even more delicious fresh fish and we took a walk along the beach towards the glitzy part.
 
In the 19th century seaside tourism developed as a health-giving activity and Cervia’s beaches and its vast pine woods came into use to welcome visitors.
 
Obviously the pinewoods, the lovely beach and the historic town (and the sublime food and wine all around) were attractive to visitors. By the time Cervia had a railway station, visitors were arriving from as far away as rich, fashionable Milan and a few Milanese took interest in the lovely area.
 
Then, at the beginning of the 20th century an agreement was reached between Cervia and the Maffei Family from Milan who bought a large piece of Cervia’s land by the sea. On this land, they built villas, parks and gardens to transform the area into a superb Art Deco holiday resort. It would be called Milano Marittima (Milan by the Sea).

The man chosen to lead the development was Milanese painter Giuseppe Palanti who had been influenced by Ebenezer Howard (the force behind the Garden City movement – thought to represent the perfect blend of city and nature).
 
In 1913 the Garden City Society built the first three cottages and the following year four more, including Giuseppe Palanti’s villa. All these cottages were in the heart of the pinewoods and in Liberty style (Italian Art Nouveau). In a few years Milano Marittima became a smart new middle-class beach resort within Cervia’s municipality.
 
The beneficial effects of Cervia’s health spa have been known for centuries and the centre has been visited by many people over the years. “Selva e Mare” – ‘forests and sea’ was the first theme used to publicize the spa at the start of the century and today is still considered the winning formula of the city.
 
Cinzia loved it. “Selva e Mare” plus fashion, elegance and food certainly did it for her!
And she loved something else about Cervia – flamingos – thousands of them. Like most of Romagna’s coast, the area around Cervia was waterland – just a few hundred years ago it was mainly seawater and now it is mainly land. Hence the vast salt-lakes, and hence the flamingos and all kinds of other water birds, but mainly flamingos, beautiful graceful flamingos. As the area around Cervia is a massive natural park, it is kept natural and protected. The environment is pretty much untouched – great pine forests, vast amounts of water, great empty beaches, paradise for flamingos.
 
I came back to Romagna for the last performance of the Ravenna Festival and we arrived in the sultry July evening heat at the massive San Giacomo palace, the seat of the power players in Ravenna – the Rasponi family.
 
“Can I tell you something” said Cinzia Pasi conpiratorially, as she waylaid Cinzia and I at the gate “They are making a factory here” “It is going to ruin our beautiful area – have a leaflet” “Do you want to see the mayor, it’s his project – he’s standing there”.
 
To be honest, in the balmy evening with a hundred or so people sitting on the grass and enjoying fabulous world music – it didn’t seem appropriate to stand and demonstrate or talk to the mayor.
 
So, we queued up at the trestle table and waited while three delightful local people laboriously wrote out tickets for a couple of ice creams – we paid our 2 euros and went to the bar to be served. Who cared about the global financial crisis, the possibility that a factory would be built. We’d got our gelatos, the musicians were drumming and singing and playing weird stringed instruments and the bureaucratically-bought ice cream tasted good. The crowd was happy and everything in Italy was in its place.
 
The concert ended late and after happily getting lost in the grounds of the old Rasponi palace, church and art gallery complex (there was always a great art gallery!) we made our way back to another Rasponi establishment – the Palazzo Baldini.

With its air of peace, understanding and plenty, you couldn’t find a more sublime place to sleep.
To be honest, you wouldn’t have marked out our hosts as medieval barons. At the Palazzo Baldini, Filipo (a veterinary surgeon) is a young impeccable, well-travelled ‘Front of House’ and his mother (a Baldini by birth) and his father aided by two inspired chefs look after the hospitality in depth.
 
It was quickly clear that just everything has been chosen with the best possible taste. From the superb white-sheeted beds, through the thoughtfully-restored and now glazed air vents in the drying-room to the miraculous ravioli, the taste, visual and culinary, is simply perfect.
 
And these Baldinis don’t stand on formality. For breakfast mother brings out a tray of melt-in-the-mouth just-baked cookies and father asks if we’d like some fresh fruit.
 
He reappears two minutes later with peaches, apricots and nectarines still warm from the sun and just plucked from the trees. With a little perfect espresso, it’s the breakfast from heaven.
 
And while dad grabs more fruit for us to take away, mum gives the tour of the garden – sample ripe figs, see the goats and chicken and rabbits gambolling and forget about the fact they’re going to be lunch!
 
It’s time for coffee. Hastily grabbing our bags and gratefully accepting a box of at least 10kg of fresh fruit (“for the journey!”) we leave to have morning coffee in Bagnacavallo, the tiny astonishing marvel of Italian medieval architecture, slumbering in the morning sun. Lord Byron must have loved it.
 
Now it really is time for lunch, up in a hilltop historic vineyard city, why not? Bertinoro has history. When the Empress Galla Placidia arrived, touring her area, they offered her wine. In fact they offered her a cup of the sublime Albana wine of which they are justly very proud and was the first wine in Italy to have a DOCG accreditation.
 
Savouring the terracotta beaker of delicious wine, she said (in Latin obviously) “This wine is so good it should be drunk in gold” Hence the city’s name – Bert in Oro (drunk in gold in Romagnolo dialect).
 
Since then, for over fifteen centuries the locals have been perfecting their wine-making craft and the city became rich and powerful. The archbishop’s castle dominates all the lands around and was once the fiefdom of Frederick Barbarossa. Now the locals just specialise in wine – and food, of course.
 
Perched on the side of its grand square, with astonishing views, Bertinoro’s best restaurant has an enormous wine museum and unbelievably good food. Because it’s at least fifteen kilometres away from the sea, it specialises in meat rather than fish. Like many Romagna restaurants it serves wonderful tagliatelli made fresh each morning and it’s served with very special ‘Ragu’ sauce. This sauce is the pride of every chef and normally includes chopped local pork and beef and many delicious secret ingredients. Sublime! It’s normally followed by an enormous plate of selected grilled meats including sausage, liver, chops, ribs, “Castrato” lamb, steaks and patties. Enough!
Finally Cinzia thought that my food education was in need of refreshment so she took me to the Via Emilia city of Forlimpopoli to learn from Pellegrino Artusi. Ever heard of Pellegrino Artusi? I hadn’t!

TO BE CONTINUED...

To enjoy the whole 241 page book full of Italian adventures - either you can buy  "You Lucky People" from Amazon or to buy it with a free copy of the 2021 Sustainable Tourism Report (value £100) CLICK HERE

and more about Romagna at www.BestofRomagna.com

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Meeting the most powerful woman in the western world

12/28/2020

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You Lucky People
Episode 2
Empress Galla Placidia

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THE STORY SO FAR:

I'd gone back to Romagna with my old friend Angelo and after 40 years we had not only discovered Ravenna but been enchanted by it!

The mosaics, the history, the atmosphere, the food, the fun and the gelatos had us captivated!


And that was it except for one thing, maybe it was the time-travelling, maybe it was the Ravenna air, but somehow my life had opened up to exciting but dangerous possibilities and I could see uncharted territory. I was, of course, blythely unaware of this, happily having an enjoyable trip but deep inside me my internal imp was doing pressups.
 
How did the rest happen? I really haven’t a clue. Suffice it to say that none of my fail-safe devices worked and I was to be drawn so far out of my comfort zone that my life was to be in danger far quicker than I could imagine.
 
Anyway, Cinzia the guide didn’t come with us to Venice. But Angelo and I, as ever, had a great time. The Venetians had pulled out their stops for us and we were staying in an unknown ex-military island in the lagoon – fascinating and just a couple of stops from Piazza San Marco on the waterbus. We went to see his mates and his favourite places, we ate great food, we popped down to the Lido, we walked and we boated around.
 
But, as I thought about the mosaics - gradually, imperceptably, a virtual bridge was being built between me and Ravenna – into the land where time took on a new identity and was to shake me to my roots.
 
Some new ideas from a new and rather strange person were creeping into my life and altering my perceptions.
 
Every day for the next two months, I set to finding out more about Ravenna, now the contested capital of Romagna, once capital of the Roman Empire, a very strange place indeed, but totally, utterly, dangerously fascinating.
 
Cinzia now became my guide. Somehow her words and her sweet enthusiasm bridged the gap between 21st-century Britain and 5th-century Ravenna taking me back a couple of millennia to Classe, the Ravenna suburb where she lived.
 
And soon enough I was there, physically in Ravenna. And that year I kept coming back to enjoy a bit of deft guided time-travelling with Cinzia. She would pick me up at the airport in her little ecocar and take me places. We’d see extraordinary things and eat extraordinary meals, stay in extraordinary places and then she’d dump me at the airport to go home. I would write an article for each visit and I was finding it more and more addictive.

Clearly, Romagna was a potent mix of everything I loved. Romagna? What the hell is Romagna?
 
A classic Roman strategy in conquered territories was to build roads through them and cities in them, so when they advanced north east of Rome first, they built a classic new city with all mod cons on the Adriatic coast called Ariminum (today’s Rimini). Naturally they built a nice new road from Rome to connect. It was called the Via Flaminia. What to do next?

In a kind of tacking move, they built a road from Ariminum towards more conquered territory in the north west. They called the road the Via Emilia and it followed the line of the Apennines towards the other sea coast – the Med’.
 
They now controlled a territory bounded by the mountains in the south and north (the alps) and seas in the west and the east, in the middle there was an astonishingly fertile plain watered by the powerful Po river.
 
Roman generals at the time had one big problem – providing pensions for their retiring soldiers, particularly if there wasn’t too much booty to go around. In these cases, generals often just captured some land and gave it away in nice retirement packages to soldiers as a working pension.
 
This method had a double benefit – not only were ex-soldiers looked after, but also the presence of soldiers added a bit of security. Naturally it was not a good idea to settle retired soldiers too close to overcrowded Rome.
 
So as soon as returning troops got through the Alps it seemed a good idea to find pension plots quick. What about that fertile land on the plain? Perfect! Before you could say Marcus Aurelius it was full of Roman soldiers living on pension plots. In other words, it became the land of the Romans or  ́Romagna’!
 
Romagna had a few pretty strong selling points. It was close to the Adriatic (lots of seafood and lots of trade with the east). It was sandwiched between the Alps and the Apennines (lots of safety). It was astonishingly fertile (lots of great food). It had great transport options (two major Roman roads and the sea).
 
So for the centuries after the Romans arrived and it got called Romagna, it became a rich, elegant and important place.
 
First, arriving over the Alps from Gallic conquests, Julius Caesar used his first major stopping place, the then-walled island city of Ravenna, to gather his troops and make his journey over the Rubicon to take Rome and become emperor.
 
Although Caesar’s campaign ended in his famous assassination, one thing was not lost on his adopted son and later emperor. Augustus recognised the invincibility of Ravenna and created one of the empire’s biggest ports and massive fleets in the city which then became a major international city-port.
 
By the time Ravenna became imperial capital of Rome it was surrounded by riches. The Via Emilia was like a glorious necklace dotted with sumptuous art cities from Ariminum to Bologna; the fertile plains were producing fabulous harvests and the hills and mountains were alive with vineyards. The scene was set to create one of the world’s great cities of art, resplendent with mosaic-stuffed basilicas. An astoundingly colourful mix of Italy and Byzantium.

In later centuries Romagna’s riches brought warlords to the green hills and the fat cities. The Borgias, the Malatestas, the Estes, the Montefeltros  brought violence, commissioned art and castles and people like Leonardo da Vinci and Dante to work in the area.
 
And even later Romagna became a pilgrimage place for artists, writers, connoisseurs and cognoscenti. Shelley and Byron, Freud and Jung, Versace and Armani, JRR Tolkien and Oscar Wilde amongst thousands of famous others trekked to Romagna to experience its colourful, world legacy treasure chest. And then they stopped coming, the second world war had allowed them to forget and for Romagna to drop off the Grand Tour itineraries.
 
By the time I arrived the treasure of Romagna had been forgotten for at least half a century. Now I was on a voyage of discovery, starting with Ravenna itself. Cinzia was determined to help me experience simply everything.
 
And we started with a meal, naturally. In a beach restaurant right on the Adriatic we ate a massive feast of fish. Simple dishes, spaghetti with juicy clams followed by a heap of mixed perfectly grilled fish.
 
Wonderful fresh fare with dozens of diners enthusiastically piling into their dishes, eating with knowledge and gusto. With the warm sea breeze, the scent of great food wafting from the kitchen and Cinzia, proud of her region’s food, tucking in with relish, I felt at home.
 
History is strange and extremely partial. Like many kids at school I was taught quite a lot of history involving Britain. I was lucky also to learn some Latin and I knew a bit about Rome and about ancient Greece. After school and during my work I was lucky enough to learn a bit more about our past. Travelling around the Silk Road had informed me a bit about one massive gap in my understanding; the Roman empire post 300 AD was to be another quite amazing untold story. Cinzia had decided to hold my hand, guide me on this exciting journey of discovery and show me everything she had. She was to become my teacher, my guide, my interpreter, and my muse as she gradually unveiled Romagna to me.
 
Again and again I returned to see and hear and taste its tempting tale – to savour this massive experience to its fullest. And every time I returned, door after door opened and veil after veil was lifted as I discovered Romagna’s unbelievable story.
 
OK I knew a bit about Romagna already... but now I was taken to the depths of the 5th century AD and Galla Placidia. Obviously Cinzia was besotted with her. But actually, who was this unknown lady? Cinzia explained...
 
Galla Placidia was born in Greece – Thessaloniki actually, the daughter of the soon-to-be Theodosius the Great emperor of Rome – so power from her father’s side. But her mother’s line may actually have been a little more tough. Her gran was the gloriously beautiful and powerful Justina who seduced and married emperor Valentinian and gave birth to the equally beautiful Galla who as a teenager, in turn, seduced Theodosius.
 
Beautiful, tough and powerful like her female antecedents, when Galla Placidia was given the title of ‘Most Noble Child’ and her own household and income, she looked set for a life of power and glory. But it was not quite as simple as that. First her mum died, then her dad was killed and shortly after the whole of her fiancé’s family was slaughtered for trying to grab power. Galla Placidia was living in Milan then and she naturally decided to flee.
 
She chose Rome as her safe spot, but unfortunately it was under seige by Barbarians when she arrived and she was captured by Ataulf, king of the Goths who wanted to hold her hostage for ransom. Naturally a big price would be demanded for such a high-grade prisoner.
 
Who knows how she did it, but Ataulf fell head over heels in love with Galla Placidia and decided to forego the ransom and take the girl. Their marriage was consummated in Forli and they had a massive wedding ceremony in Narbonne (the then capital of the Gothic lands) surrounded by many fortunes of captured booty. Galla Placidia became Queen Consort of the Goths. One of her wedding presents – a hundred handsome slaves each bearing massive platters of priceless jewels and gold looted from Rome!
 
So, loved-up and happy for once, there is yet another turn in her tale. Taking a bath in Barcelona, Ataulf was slaughtered by a rival who proceeded to kill the king’s ex-wife and his six children. Galla Placidia was again used as a ransom but not before she had been marched in front of her husband’s murderer.
 
Her half-brother Honorius had a cunning plan. Now he was in charge of the empire, he would ransom Galla, his half-sister, whom he had designs on, marry her off to his friend, the soldier Constantius, and while he was away in battle, Honorius would have her all to himself. So in 417 Constantius married Galla Placidia then off he went to fight.

It didn’t quite work out like that. Honorius moved everyone to Ravenna from Milan and to get the ménage a trois working properly he made Constantius joint emperor – so when Galla Placidia married she became Empress Consort in the Western Roman Empire then she had his two children Justa and Valentinian then of course Constantius died!
 
By now Constantius had become the real power behind Honorius’ throne and Galla Placidia’s protector. Knowing that she was in danger without his protection and fearful of the anger of the Ravenna population at her perceived incest with her brother, Galla Placidia fled to Constantinople with her children.
 
Mind you, by now Constantinople was about as safe as Rome had been when Galla Placidia had fled there. The Eastern (and most important) capital of the Roman Empire was pretty much under seige by Atilla the Hun. There was sufficient danger for a wall to be built to secure Constantine’s beautiful new city.
 
Then her half-brother Honorius died. In Constantinople with her half-nephew Emperor Theodosius, Galla Placidia decided to make a bid for power for her son Valentinian.
 
In the meantime local civil servant Johannes had seized power in Ravenna and was negotiating to become emperor.
 
After getting Theodosius’ support for Valentinian to be child emperor plus an army and a fleet of ships, Galla Placidia left the Bosphorus to take ‘impregnable’ Ravenna. She went by land with a small army and her captain Ardaburius went by sea.
 
Ardaburius and two of his galleys were captured by forces loyal to Johannes and were held prisoners in Ravenna. The top grade prisoner was allowed the freedom of walking the court and streets of Ravenna during his captivity. He took advantage of this privilege to get the city gates open to let in his troops. Johannes was taken and his right hand cut off; he was then mounted on a donkey and paraded through the streets, and finally beheaded in the city’s main hippodrome.
 
All Galla Placidia had to do was to make peace with the Goths waiting for spoils and she was in! Now she was Empress Consort on behalf of her 3-year-old son. Real power at last!
 
Thus began Ravenna’s age of Roman glory. Now not just a port, it was Imperial capital of Rome – and its empress – twice married, twice widowed, twice ransomed, humiliated and bartered now glorious Galla Placidia.
 
In 425 she started a building campaign that is evident even now, nearly 1600 years later. She built beautiful basilicas, commissioned glistening mosaics, started to create glorious Ravenna. Beautiful, rich, powerful, opulent, impregnable, global, stuffed full of Byzantine treasure, Rome’s window on the east was also full of intrigue, deca- dence and seedy goings-on.
 
Galla Placidia, though, was empress at a time when the whole world was in chaos. The city of Rome had fallen, the known world was full of millions of refugees due to famines.

Whole peoples were roaming the world to find fat territories to ravage and plunder. In China there were massive famines, hunger and death; in Europe malaria had reached the hitherto cold northern countries. Atilla the Hun and his vicious tribes having been bribed to go by Theodosius, were on their way to Italy. Rome’s western empire had fallen apart, the Vandals had reached North Africa, and closer to Ravenna the lands were full of Ostrogoths, Visigoths, Barbarians, and many other tribes who relished the opportunity to ravish the great city.
 
It’s lucky for her that Galla Placidia was a woman of steel forged in conquest and defeat.

TO BE CONTINUED...

To enjoy the whole 241 page book full of Italian adventures - either you can buy  "You Lucky People" from Amazon

or to buy it with a free copy of the 2021 Sustainable Tourism Report (value £100) CLICK HERE


and more about Romagna at www.BestofRomagna.com

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My Italian Adventure

12/24/2020

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You Lucky People
Episode 1
Romagna Mia

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 It all had seemed harmless enough to start with. We two old geezers, Angelo and I, had known each other well for more than half a century by now. We’d both been in the travel business for all of that time. I’d blagged a trip for us to Emilia Romagna on the basis that we’d write an article on the destination’s green credentials.

As it happened, we were eminently well qualified for the task. We both knew the travel industry like the backs of our hands; I’d been writing about tourism sustainability for more than 20 years and Angelo was still a travel industry politician. 

Although he was a bit biased towards the Veneto (he was a Venetian, after all!) we both loved and knew Italy from top to bottom and side to side, having worked there and travelled around together and apart for nearly half a century.

And Emilia Romagna wasn’t just picked out from a hat. With its well-earned reputation for incredible local food and drink, its community-based offbeat left-wing politics and its reverence for regional culture and history – I felt it was set to be a real star in the green tourism world.

Anyway, Angelo had been banging on at me about the delights of green bike-city Ferrara, and I had been desperate to see the extraordinary mosaics in Ravenna for at least forty years. We’d both been to Bologna – the region’s capital – many times and we knew just what an impossibility finding a bad meal was in this red city. So, if the rest of the region was up to the same mark, we would be in for a real feast.

Angelo was detailed to negotiate details with his friends at the Italian tourist board and before you could say Parmesan, Parma Ham or Balsamic Vinegar we were off to the home of all these and much more.

In Bologna we stayed in a ‘Right-on’ B&B – actually a big apart- ment in an enormous palace, with 4 letting rooms run by a youthful crowd of home-knitted organic-eating students.
As soon as we pressed the apartment’s bell and entered the massive doors into the old stone courtyard, we got the picture. We checked into a quirky green apartment in a Bologna palace – now a student co-operative and got ready to eat Bolognese lentils.

Here, student kitsch met massive medieval walls and a sustainable ethos – what the guiding co-operative called “respect for nature, values of organic, energy conservation and sustainability”. We got the picture.

Not an ancient stone had been left unturned to demonstrate the organic, low-impact products in this funky establishment right in the heart of Bologna’s medieval student quarter.

For the rest of the evening Angelo and I wandered what seemed like all the atmospheric medieval city’s 38km of porticos and dozens of squares pursuing our Bolognese hobby - searching for a bad meal – no luck, happily.

We walked and ate with the benefit of Angelo’s Michelin Italy and a little deft questioning of locals. The highlight of the visit for Angelo was eating Culatello di Zibello – possibly the rarest ham in Italy. “What’s the difference with normal Culatello” says Angelo “Five kilometres” replied the waiter. For me, it was the Mostarda – pickled sweet fruit – hot and sweet and delicious all at the same time.

Next on the itinerary was Ferrara. Here we stayed in a chintzy B&B in the old Ghetto, we cycled around to eat and we went to Venetian- style Commachio to see the eel-fishing industry and eel-canning factory. The poster of Sophia Loren, hands above her head exposing her little tufts of underarm hair attested to the date (circa 1954), of the film it promoted – La Donna del Fiume – and reminded me of the passion of my youth. Canned eel, though? Not to my, or Angelo’s taste.

But something quite strange happened to our perceptions in Ferrara. Lucrezia Borgia. 

Our local guide took us to where she was resting still looked after by nuns. And revered. They were all talking about her as though she were still alive “Poor maligned, misunder- stood Lady Lucia”, they said. She’d certainly had a tough life – married off many times, little opportunity for her real love and a life of kindness and charity – quite different from the ‘Femme Fatale’ she has been depicted as – but still alive? Maybe it’s the Italian penchant for the present tense, I thought.

Anyway things got a lot better when we arrived in Ravenna. A pretty ocal tour guide, Cinzia, met us at the station and walked us to our B&B. Well, palace in the city wall, to be more precise. Both of us had massive suites, mine included a dressing room, a library an enormous bathroom plus a vast, enormous four-poster bed of which more later.

So with Angelo and I happily settled in our palace lodging suites, Cinzia proceeded to show us around.

Ravenna is a very strange place both very dead and nearly alive at the same time. Thinking about it now gives me the shivers. But you’ve got to see it. In the world of undiscovered amazing places it’s a must.

So we tottered out of the palace with Cinzia and down the road to the mausoleum by way of a very dark, very old basilica.

Let me explain; Ravenna’s times of glory and global power were twofold – the first at the height of the Roman Empire’s power and the second just as Rome was losing its grip. So, for about 500 years, Ravenna was THE place to be. 

A pivotal eastern backdoor to the warring western world where East met West met North met South. Or in other words Byzantium came face to face with Rome confronting the Goths fighting the Vandals. And in the 5th century AD Ravenna became really, really hot.

Cinzia took us by our hands and led us there... right into Ravenna 465 AD. In the Basilica of San Vitale we met Theodora the dancing girl mascot of the charioteers who became empress in a love match with Emperor Justinian. Inside what seemed like an enormous Byzan- tine domed dark blue jewel box we met the empress Galla Placidia in this, her mausoleum. Here this shockingly powerful woman created her own final resting place festooned with deeply coloured mosaics glistening to us now as though they were made and polished yesterday or, indeed today.

The sheer opulence of it all made us blink. And then, as Cinzia carefully brought us out to the present day we blinked again. Time travel is hungry work. “Lunch” said Angelo “Will you join us, Cinzia?”

So we all had a nice lunch together after our time-travelling and Cinzia told us that it was her birthday tomorrow “Great,” says Angelo “You can put on a miniskirt to show off your beautiful legs – I know they’re beautiful – and you can join us for dinner too.” God knows what he was doing but at the moment he seemed to be on a roll.

Cinzia was nice enough, tall and slim and very attractive in a Russian ikon or Modigliani kind of way with a touch of the Mona Lisas but she seemed to be rather sweet, and a little tame to tell the truth. Anyway, now we’d got behind the task of getting Cinzia out for dinner there was no going back. The die was cast and the first step of my challenging future made.

Our afternoon was spent innocently enough tasting sublime olive oil up in a Venetian conquered village on the brow of a hill with soaring castles and a microclimate, you’ve guessed it, absolutely perfect for growing the top variety of olives. And wine, as it happens, and honey, and lots of other good things.

Why? Because the hill is actually made of gypsum. Anywhere else they may have knocked it down and sold it as aggregate – but not in Romagna. If you can grow good stuff on it, grow it.

So Brisighella was fabulous and so was the olive oil – plus we’d learnt a new skill. Olive oil tasting was obviously an art in itself – and, according to Cinzia we were naturals.

We were in good spirits on the way back to Ravenna, undaunted by Cinzia’s decision to join us only for dessert and a coffee that evening.
But she did turn up in a mini-skirt, at least, and posed for photo- graphs with us at the hotel door. And wrote her email address on a restaurant napkin for me – another step as it was to turn out.

The next day we were to leave for Angelo’s beloved Venice and the magic of Ravenna could have stopped there, except for the fact that I’d already asked Cinzia to join us. “No problem” he said “Could be a bit of fun” obviously relishing the thought of having double the audience.

And that was it except for one thing, maybe it was the time-travelling, maybe it was the Ravenna air, but somehow my life had opened up to exciting but dangerous possibilities and I could see uncharted territory. I was, of course, blythely unaware of this, happily having an enjoyable trip but deep inside me my internal imp was doing pressups.

To be continued... TWICE A WEEK

To enjoy the whole 241 page book full of adventures - either you can buy  "You Lucky People" from Amazon
or buy it with a free copy of the 2021 Sustainable Tourism Report (value £100) HERE

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Don’t look down. Look up - here is a taste of the great things to come

12/22/2020

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2020 was total rubbish for EVERYONE in the travel industry but 2021 already has the look of being totally full of opportunities.

Sustainable Tourism will open millions of local doors and will jingle cash tills everywhere. And it will provide good quality well paid fulfilling employment and training for millions.

New Investment money will flow in from well heeled sources eager to be associated with the transformation of quality destinations.

Multifarious new levels of tourism, profitability, creativity and fulfilment will be unearthed by the driving new Experience Economy.

The Carbon Market will unharness trillions of dollars for good causes whilst reigning in our ridiculous waste and emissions.

And just imagine the power that Virtual Tourism will bring - creativity and billions more than the amazing gaming industry.

Do you want all these wonderful things? Yes or no?

I’ll be writing about all these individual opportunities more fully in the days and weeks to come.

And if you are still in the travel industry at the beginning of this new 2021 all I can say is “You Lucky People”

You can read all about it free at your leisure. Just buy a copy of my amazing story  in the travel industry “You Lucky People” and get a copy of the 2021 Sustainable Tourism Report (value £100) free. You can choose one of three special editions - Travel Agent, Destination or Student.

Valere Tjolle

Ps did you know that over 99% of outbound tourists go to less than 1% of destinations? No overcrowding there eh?

PPs did you know that destination based curated experience operators like Best of Romagna are the future?

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NEW: Sustainable Tourism Report 2021

12/8/2020

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17th Annual Report soon to be released 50% earlybird discount available now
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One of the events that affected me most last year was an art exhibition called ‘Tour Operator’ created by Italian artist Massimo Sansavini. All the works of art on display were made of bits of the boats which carried refugees to Sicily. Each artwork had a web page attached showing how big the boat was, how many refugees it carried and how many died in transit.

More than anything it showed me how inextricably travel - the business of dreams - is related to the real world.

In the real world... the pandemic is still not under control, populist authoritarian regimes are spreading like wildfire, LBGTQ, women, minorities of all kinds are still discriminated against, there are still over 26 million refugees, human rights and workers’ rights are consistently infringed in tourism, over 40 million human beings are still held in some kind of modern slavery... and a climate disaster is already upon us.

Although the writing has been on the wall for nearly forty years, the global travel and tourism industry, with notable exceptions, has paid little but lip service to sustainability until now.

Now it’s all change.

There are three forces that have the power to change the global travel and tourism industry dramatically - the market, big money and cohesive powerful global government action.

In 2021 these forces will be in a dynamic conjunction.

The market has already indicated that sustainable tourism will be number one; Governments are lining up behind the Paris Accord on Climate Change outbidding each other in emissions reductions and many trillions are now in a burgeoning global Carbon Market.

The timeline has been painful but it looks like, finally, sustainability and tourism may merge to form a truly durable activity.

This will create enormous changes.

As the global carbon market grows - now powered by a group of people led by ex Bank of England Governor Mark Carney - finally the airlines will have to ditch toothless CORSIA for a tough financial solution. As far as emissions are concerned (and airlines represent 80% of travel emissions) they will have to cut their cloth to fit their flights.

All the forecasts now show that the market will require sustainable tourism practices from season 2021. Clients will look for valid confirmation that their suppliers are actually practising what they preach - they have had enough of fake news - they will not tolerate greenwash.

And now it looks like a change of direction is taking place and the USA will rejoin the Paris Accord - this will mean that our global vision will change.

Destinations will attract massive new funding from global institutions seeking to promote their sustainability credentials. This will enable them to fulfil visitor demand for sustainable local initiatives - in particular food and drink, artisan and produce related. The Experience Economy will change our destinations for the better and offer locals quality employment opportunities creating places that are good to live in and to visit.

Visitors will get a healthier, wider, more fulfilling experiences.

But watch out for China - their trillion dollar Silk Road - now the One Belt One Road infrastructure project may change tourism in a less beautiful way.

We’ve got a long way to go but we could still get there if we choose not to treat our clients as numbers.

I’ve asked some friends to help us understand the plethora of information and projections that are swirling around us confusing 2021. So report subscribers will be treated to six big podcasts. Each a full thirty minute interview with a globally important, powerful and informed individual. Each with a big story. People I’ve known for years.

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In the 2021 Sustainable Tourism Report you’ll read something of tourism’s past, a little of its present and a lot of its potential future.

That’s largely because 2020 held very little present - that had been taken by COVID 19 and governments’ measures against it. Something like 90% of tourism activity wiped out.

In the report we deal with with the subjects that will certainly be of critical importance in 2021 and those that will present the biggest, most sustainable opportunities.

Best to understand them now!

Sustainable Tourism is the 38-year-old big issue of 2021 the subject embodies everything that is really important about tourism. We’ve been writing about it specifically for over 20 years. The issue hasn’t changed but it is more important than ever as is sustainable tourism’s dark side - Greenwash and Fairwash - we published the definitive report 10 years ago. This cynical meretricious practice hadn’t changed either, except to get more malicious.

Now we’re in the grips of the pandemic which has stopped tourism and its side effects, but not for long. Maybe its time for something different, less harmful and more fulfilling, can Virtual Tourism help? Can the Experience Economy make holidays both more sustainable and more fulfilling - plus more truly profitable?

What dangers are there on the horizon? Is China’s Silk Road a massive tourism takeover or an opportunity and the Carbon Market is it trillion dollar greenwash or a massive opportunity?

Finally, in this report we explore truly new and amazing structural and financial opportunities for Destinations and the delectable opportunity that Food Tourism presents.

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Plus for the first time each report subscription includes six exclusive 30 minute informative podcast interviews, each an in depth talk with a truly powerful global tourism executive. The World Bank and IFC; the GSTC, Green Destinations; ITB, SunX, and one of the world’s top sustainable destinations - they are all there.

I hope you enjoy. More importantly I know this report will inform your actions.

You can get an single user earlybird subscription now for £50/€55/$65
Or a multiple user one now for £100/€110/$130

To find out more click HERE

Valere Tjolle

Valere Tjolle was for 15 years the sustainable tourism editor for TravelMole.com, the world's largest global online community for the travel and tourism industry. He is now an independent commentator and CEO of Tourism Vision.

As principal of TotemTourism for the last 18 years Valere has specialized in the ethical development and marketing of sustainable tourism projects.
Projects have included tourism developments in Africa, USA, UK and Eastern Europe for clients as diverse as the European Union, the World Bank, UNWTO, UNEP, the Department for International Development and local and international travel and tourism entrepreneurs.

Valere has published the Sustainable Tourism Report Suite since its inception in 2003.

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    Author

    Valere Tjolle is the travel and tourism insider. An entrepreneur, consultant, developer and journalist, he has been in at the beginning of almost every tourism development for the last sixty years. There is no one better placed to expose the seedy side of tourism nor its enormous opportunities to unite people across the globe.

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Tourism in the 2020s – will it delight or devastate the human race?
New book starts at the beginning and predicts the next 60 years of tourism.

 
 
In 1960 did we believe that an international travel industry would increase from just 25 million passengers a year to 1.5 billion?
 
Did we believe that the economic opportunities promoted by dictator Franco’s government would sweep the world, promoted by the World Bank?
 
Did we believe that travel would become both a friend and a foe to many destinations and that it would help to threaten our Earth’s ecosystems, cultures, economies, society as a whole?
 
If we didn’t believe all that then, what do we believe now?
 
You Lucky People sets out the past, the present and a future for tourism - all very irreverently!
 
Could global tourism be totally subject to Chinese demands, could it become entirely virtual, could it be so hampered by world disturbances, diseases, violence in destinations and other curses that it could change its nature dramatically. Could it actually be stopped because of its environmental and social damage?
 
Or ... could it be managed harmoniously and effectively by local destinations and marketed by really responsible business entrepreneurs so that its great benefits could be available to many more millions?
 
The author, Valère Tjolle, has been in the travel industry for almost all of these last 60 years. His story is that of real experience in the industry all over the world, and in-depth understandings and involvements with all the innovations and transformations over that period.
 
It was his annual Sustainable Tourism Report that pointed to the growth potential of the ‘Sharing Economy’ and tipped every other major development; his Greenwash Report that rated companies and activities according to their actual sustainability performance; his Global Top 100 Sustainable Destinations that picked out the real destination winners
 
From the ‘Mom and Pop’ businesses of the 50s through the devil-may-care entrepreneurs of the last decades of the 20th century to the massively powerful tech businesses of today - the real story of the travel industry is pithily portrayed with humour and realism.
 
‘You Lucky People’ is not an academic history of the industry - it is a warts-and-all story of a deep insider’s experience at the heart of the industry.
 
Come for the ride! See it here:

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